Mont Blanc with Ali

The invitation:

after the extension of a simple invitation. This summer was no different, but while the invitation itself was simple, the adventure was not. Prior to texting Olga, I had researched a guided 4-day trek around Mont Blanc. We soon began dreaming of passing incredible glaciers and mountain lakes along the way, but we also knew that this would be a significant hike (especially coming from the vertically challenged country of The Netherlands) as we would ascend the steep inclines of summits and passes. But the idea of the breathtaking views and just being in the great outdoors trumped our reservations without a second thought, and we signed up with eager anticipation. Our trek was only a “highlight trek” lasting just 4 days, unlike the full Mont Blanc tour which typically lasts anywhere from 1-2 weeks. I can say with unwavering confidence that I am very pleased to have selected the 4-day trek. It was a good fit for me…even if I was at the back on the train (so to speak) sucking wind.

Training:

How do you train for a hike like this? Well, we certainly did a lot of walking! Similar to preparing for a marathon, I would increase my mileage each week. Unlike a marathon, though, I found myself experimenting with various packs and boots each time I went out. But, since summer is the best season in the Netherlands, there is no place I’d rather be than outdoors, traipsing through trails in the woods or along the North Sea shoreline. I often used an app to track my mileage and elevation gain. Sadly, I was always disappointed with my elevation gained…or not gained, I should say.

Packing:

Thankfully, Alps Adventures, the company used through our Skyhook booking, was extremely organized. They provided detailed packing lists and offered short, informational videos that I used extensively. We were encouraged to pack for 4 days using a 35-45L pack that weighed no more than 8 kilos. “Light is right,” we were told.

I like a good challenge, but I also like to think of myself as a minimalist, so adhering to the packing list wasn’t too difficult for me – except for the fact that I may have packed a few too many snacks. And how is it that I ended up with more food in my pack than what I started with? In my defense though, I am a mom of four, so it’s just second nature to take extra treats! Did I eat all the snacks? No! Did others have some? Yes! Did I die from the extra weight in my pack? No!

So, I guess it was worth it. 

Itinerary:

Day 1: Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti, Val Ferret

After a comfortable night at the Hilton Geneva Hotel complete with a delicious breakfast and one last hot shower, Olga and I were picked up from the Geneva Airport and then driven to the Italian side of Mont Blanc. Since there was extensive traffic in the tunnel, our hike started prematurely. Before the vans inched their way through the tunnel, we got out and climbed up the mountainside (with our guide and new hiking mates) eventually meeting the vans at the top as they emerged from the tunnel. The remainder of the drive was short before we stopped at a café in Italy for one last drink and bathroom break. From here, the official hiking began and we hiked up the Val Ferret Valley, enjoying incredible views of the Mont Blanc Massif along the way. In the afternoon, we arrived at the remote Rifugio W. Bonatti, a mountain hut at 2,025m of altitude.

Day 2: Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly

We began Day 2 traversing the mountain, hiking up to the border with Switzerland. As we ascended, we saw beautiful views of the south face of the Mont Blanc range. Stopping along the way to catch our breath, we eventually made it to the highest point on our trek, the Grand Ferret Pass, at 2,536 m. (As a former Flagstaff resident, I’m slightly embarrassed to say that’s only 8,320 ft, but it sure felt higher! That’s what happens when you live at sea level, I guess.) In the afternoon, we trekked into Switzerland and headed back down the mountain. Along the way, we passed by herds of loud, bell-wearing cows before reaching La Fouly, where we dipped our feet into a cold stream. From here, we took a minibus transfer, stopping on the way to swim in an alpine lake, to our final destination of the day in a secluded valley at the Relais D’Arpette.

Day 3: Champex-Lac to Trient

Day 3 started with a gentle warm-up down through the woods before a challenging ascent hike to Bovine, known for its incredible rosti (a traditional and delicious pan-fried Swedish dish of potatoes and cheese)! In the afternoon, after a short ice-cream break and a mandatory merch stop, we headed down through the world-famous Col de la Forclaz. Our day’s hike ended with a welcomed descent into the picturesque Swiss village of Trient.

Day 4: Trient to Le Tour

On our final day of hiking, we trekked back into France. We made our way up to Col De Balme, boasting some of the most incredible views of Mont Blanc and agreed to a second summit – because why not? It was another 25 minutes of climbing, but our picnic lunch awaited us shortly afterwards. The afternoon was a pleasant hike partially down the mountain. From here, some opted to hike the reminder of the way down while others (myself included) enjoyed a warm but quick (and easy on the knees) cable car ride down to Le Tour. From Le Tour, we took a crowded bus back to the Vert Lodge to collect our luggage and say goodbye.

Our Group:

Our hiking group consisted of 14 people (including our guide). We were strangers coming into the adventure, but outdoor adventures tend to build bonds quickly, and it wasn’t long before we developed genuine friendships with others in the group. I, of course, had Olga with me on the trip. And most had, like us, signed up for the adventure with a friend or family member…but not everyone. The majority of our group were from the UK, and it’s fair to say that I was wishing for subtitles most of the time, but everyone had a good sense of humor and treated each other with kindness and respect. The first people I met were Jai, George, and Harry. Jai was the eldest in our group and could out-hike me any day. Honestly, who are we kidding, they could all out-hike me. He had signed up for this adventure alone and quickly bonded with the other vegetarians and men in our group. George and Harry, brothers in their 20’s, always made me smile. Harry stopped regularly on the trail and took approximately 5,280 pictures during our four days together. I appreciated his stops because his presence made me feel less lonely at the end of the line. I must say that I was especially fond of the brothers as I thought of my own two younger sons, and hoped that one day, they too, might go on adventures together like George and Harry someday.

The five of us met up with the rest of the group in Chamonix, where I met a father-son duo, James and Francis, respectively. James, we quickly learned, would keep us laughing even when we felt like crying. I have too many fun memories that include James to share them all, but perhaps my favorite was when he confessed that he was looking at the firm, shapely legs of a group of male mountain runners only to ensure us that he was, indeed, thinking about women. Francis, his son, only 16 years, was a sweet, old-soul…often embarrassed by his father’s antics, and very much in tune with what was happening around him. One day at lunch, I asked the group what they were grateful for so far on our journey, and Francis’ response was, in a very British accent, “the lot of you.” When I finally understood what he was saying, my heart melted, and I wished we lived nearer to one another so he could be friends with my own boys.

We had another couple in our group, Sarah and Stuart, who were young and athletic. I’m convinced that Sarah might have taken little doses of speed occasionally, what with the way she shimmied up those mountains like a chamois. And Stuart wasn’t too far behind her with his massive calves hoisting him up the mountainside. Those suckers made my thick thighs look like tiny twigs.

Our guide, Guy, was a petite man who epitomized a mountain guide expert, telling us about the various rock layers we saw as well as unique facts about marmots’ digestive tracts. He made sure his ducks were accounted for and easily bounced between the speedy hikers up front and the less-speedy hikers, who were just slower at taking in the views, in the back. Guy’s friend and co-worker, Meghan, joined us as well and brought a sweet mother hen feel to the group as she passed on bits of information we might not have heard the first time around.

The last three in our group were two women and a man who signed up for this adventure separately. They were: Amanda, a minister from Scotland, Roberta, a young Lithuanian who had recently relocated to England, and Joe, a young, adventurous soul from the UK. I feel that it’s necessary to reiterate that they were willing to go on this great adventure without knowing a single soul. Not. One. Maybe it’s because I’m an introvert, but I’m not sure that I would ever sign up for an adventure like this one alone. I’d like to think that I could, but it’s much easier for me to step into the unknown when I’ve got a friend by my side, so I will always be impressed by (and a bit in awe of) their bravery. (Thank you, Olga, for accepting my invitation!)

Reflections:

We may have started as strangers, but our group quickly melded so that everyone felt welcome and, for the most part, looked after. Our days were tough with intense climbs (and strong winds at times). But I always finished not only thinking “Man, am I glad that’s over?!”, but also, “I just did that!” There was a continual sense of accomplishment at the end of each day because it never felt like one day was easier than the previous. I was met with challenges, and I had to dig in. I had plenty of time for self-talk in the mountains and I often had to recalibrate my words when I felt my thoughts were hindering my success. Thoughts of “Why did I think this would be fun?” had to be replaced with “Look around you!” I saw and heard cows calling us to dinner (even at ten in the morning) with bells around their necks as they grazed. I spotted eagles soaring above us with wings outstretched and majestic, and was reminded of the renewed strength I’ve often read about in Isaiah 40. I admired beautiful flowers along the path; some were shaped like bells, some had petals so thin they appeared to have colorful veins going through them, and others that were undoubtedly Dr. Seuss’s inspiration for The Lorax. They were beautiful, yet delicate encouragers, cheering me forward!

At the end of each hike, we found comfort in various mountain huts along the way. There was a sense of camaraderie not only with those in our group, but also with the other hikers in the huts – an unspoken understanding that we knew both the joys and the pains they had experienced that day. We were all tough, and we were all tired. On our second night, we had the opportunity to enjoy an alpine lake before reaching our hut. Amanda and I put on our swimsuits and jumped in with a few others – some squealed a little more than us (ahem, Harry) from the shocking chill. Yes, of course it was cold, but I’m pretty sure it wasn’t as cold as the showers in the Bonatti Refuge from the night before. And after a long day of hiking, the lake was a welcome and refreshing cold water plunge.  

Nights in the refuge were always fun whether we were teaching Olga how to play UNO, sipping Limoncello spritzers, or enjoying more potatoes and cheese together around the dining table. But our fun didn’t last until the wee hours of the morning because who could even keep their eyes open past 10 p.m.? The morning would soon come and our aching bodies needed some bit of recovery. Retreating to our rooms was easily one of my favorite times of the day, not only was my body ready for the break, I also had the greatest roommates: Olga, Amanda, and Roberta. We seemed to experience a second wind ever so briefly when we said goodnight to the others and went to our room. Giggling way too late each night, I felt like I was back in high school again. Roberta had never slept in bunk beds before this trip, and being the youngest, she, of course, quickly found her place on the top bunk. Olga initiated Roberta with a few swift pumps from her legs on the underside of her mattress. We laughed and Roberta questioned aloud whether or not she would really enjoy sleeping on the “second story.”

I ended the tour feeling accomplished, ready to soak in a tub and enjoy a night in the hotel by myself before boarding a plane for home the next morning. It was sad to leave my newfound friends, but I was exhausted, and it was time to say goodbye. Leaving the group and going my own way after having spent the last four days with them was figuratively and literally like coming down off a mountaintop. I had experienced a wonderfully challenging yet amazing time with these strangers that I don’t know if I’ll ever see again, but I left feeling overwhelmed with gratitude.

I look back on my TdMB experience as an adventure that encompassed a broad spectrum of emotions. I seemed to exist in an unfamiliar space that alternated simultaneously between pride and humility. At times I felt excited yet also frustrated. I was awestruck by the majesty of God’s creation one minute and gasping for air as I questioned my capabilities the next. It was joy-filled and exhausting, and I think that’s why I loved it!

If you’re ever debating whether or not to sign up for a Skyhook adventure https://www.skyhookadventure.com/, consider this your invitation. I’d like to recommend the Tour du Mont Blanc Highlights with Alps Adventures https://alpsadventures.ch/. Sign up with a friend…or don’t, you’re sure to meet a great lot along the way!